In Vietnam, nuoc mam (fish sauce) is like wine, with subtle differences in regional productions. The most highly regarded is made on an island called Phu Quoc, where they use a traditional fermentation process to attain their rich sauce. It is worth seeking out a Vietnamese market to acquire good nuoc mam as it is the essential element in all of Vietnamese cooking.

I made this dish to bubble gently away on grandpa's wood stove in early December just after pulling the last bunch of carrots from our almost frozen ground and planting garlic for next spring. I chose a Vietnamese stew because of a guest who was coming with the specific purpose of having a conversation about linguistics. Grandpa had spent eighteen years in Sai Gon, ultimately getting a masters in linguistics in order to teach english teachers there. This particular stew was adapted from a recipe by Nicole Routhier and uses the winter vegetables from the season while taking advantage of the fresh tomatoes and chiles which continue to grow in grandpa's greenhouse.

Ingredients
3 Tbs dried lemon grass soaked in warm water for 1hour (or 3 stalks fresh)
4 shallots
6 large cloves garlic
2 fresh red chile peppers (to taste)
1 tsp sugar
4 Tbs curry powder
1/4 cup nuoc mam
fresh ground black pepper
4 lbs boned chicken cut into chunks
3 Tbs coconut oil
4 medium yellow potatoes cut into 1 1/2" pieces
2 bay leaves
2 large red onions chopped large
3 ripe tomatoes chopped into 8 pieces each
2 cups home made chicken broth
1 Tbs salt
3 large carrots cut into 1" pieces
1/2 small winter squash cut into 1" pieces
2 cups heavy cream (or coconut milk)

Method
In a blender, combine lemon grass, shallots, garlic, chiles, sugar, curry powder, fish sauce & black pepper to taste. Process into a fine paste. Pour over chicken pieces & marinate 1 hour.

Heat coconut oil in a large pot over medium high heat. Add the potatoes and brown on all sides. Remove from pot with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Add onions & bay leaves to the same large pot after allowing the coconut oil to reheat. After a few minutes, add the chicken pieces and the marinade to fry for about 5 more minutes, turning frequently. Add the chopped tomatoes, stir for 2 minutes. Add the chicken broth & salt, reduce heat & simmer for 30 minutes.

Add carrots & squash, and return the potatoes to the pot. Simmer uncovered for 30 more minutes, stirring occasionally. Add cream or coconut milk and simmer for 15 more minutes.

Serve with Jasmine rice.

4-6 servings

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